The Tile is In (Bathroom Update)

Here is what the bathroom looked like last week. The new sheet rock was up on the walls and ceiling.

Earlier this week, the walls and ceiling were taped, floated and textured. A new hole was cut in the ceiling for the fan.

I didn't want a huge difference it the floor heights of the hallway and bathroom. This meant not putting backer board down under the tile. In order to make sure the tile didn't crumble with the natural flexing of the floor, a membrane was put down on the wood. It went down a turquoise color and dried an dark green. My contractor took some photos as it was going on. I'll post them once he sends them.

Pardon the grainy night/low light shot. The tile was going down in the morning so I couldn't wait to take a photo.

I had the top piece of trim removed from the window so it would be easier to refinish. Behind the wood were several old mud dauber (wasp) nests. They look speckled because they got sprayed with texture. Somehow the wasps got in through the siding on the outside of the house. They appear to be long gone. Good! I don't like flying insects, especially ones that sting.

Close up of mud dauber nest

The day after the membrane went down, the tile was laid. I decided on the white hex tile with the black accents.

Then the next day it was grouted.I choose the lightest available gray. I'm really happy with how it looks.

I really, really, really wanted to use the glitter grout I saw at the store. Glitter! In grout! It was sparkly! But I realized that it would look really weird unless I was using glass tile. Another project then.

Glitter grout. It was more sparkly in person.

Next up the walls need to be primed and painted. They will be Benjamin Moore Wickam Grey--the same color they were (see below). I also need to finish re-finishing the medicine cabinet, window trim and the door.

Then new baseboards need to be made where there were none. The gloss white I had on the baseboards now looks yellow against the white tile. I have some true white paint, but it's latex and won't go over the oil. I either need to strip the existing baseboards or find some new oil paint that matches the tile better. Ugh!

Here is the list of to-dos:

Tear out corner cabinet

Remove tub and sink

Tear out old tile

Open wall/floor, replace pipes to sink and tub

Replace 80% of drywall on walls and ceiling

Strip and refinish medicine cabinet (in progress)

Strip, refinish and repair original sash window including broken pane and rope pulleys

Replace bottom pane with stained glass if affordable

Refinish window

Install fan in ceiling

Tile floor

Replace and patch baseboards

Replace shoe molding

Float and tape walls

Paint walls

Paint baseboards and shoe molding

Replace tub and sink

Fabricate hook and hang antique cup holder

Purchase properly sized storage cabinet

The Latest on the Bathroom Overhaul

Even the inside is purple

Here is the list of to-dos:

Tear out corner cabinet

Remove tub and sink

Tear out old tile

Open wall/floor, replace pipes to sink and tub

Replace 80% of drywall on walls and ceiling

Strip and refinish medicine cabinet (in progress)

Strip, refinish and repair original sash window including broken pane and rope pulleys

Replace bottom pane with stained glass if affordable

Refinish window

Install fan in ceiling

Tile floor

Replace and patch baseboards

Replace shoe molding

Float and tape walls

Paint walls

Paint baseboards and shoe molding

Replace tub and sink

Fabricate hook and hang antique cup holder

Purchase properly sized storage cabinet

I am currently working on the medicine cabinet. I used my go-to stripper, Soygel. Both the exterior and interior were painted dark purple. Beneath the purple paint, I found several layers of white and offwhite, a layer of lavender, more white, then finally a beigey yellow.

Ready to sand

The hardware was also covered in layers and layers of paint. The striper softened the outer layers. To get the older stuff I tried latex paint remover (eh), paint thinner (eh), baking soda and boiling water (so-so) scrubbing with a toothbrush and textured sponge between each attempt. After several hours, I finally got down to bare metal. It appears they are copper and have a nice patina except for the top of the cabinet latch. The coating has peeled away to reveal dark flat metal.

Before

After

I wonder if the hardware on the window is also copper. The sash pull is rusted and corroded and there’s no telling what the metal was. The sash lock is covered in paint. I’ll find out what’s under it later.

Rusty sash pull and rotted window sill

The window sill and side frames are pretty rotten so will be replaced. Once removed you can see the original window weights--two on each side. The front set controls the bottom window and the rear set controls the top. The top window is currently painted shut. The previous owner even painted the rope for the weights, so it will have to be replaced. Both windows will be removed and refinished. If it's affordable, I will replace the broken glass in the lower window with an antique stained glass window. Old Is Better Than New has a nice selection. Hopefully something will fit!

Why?!?

Painted rope, weight pulley

Dusty and rusty

The lighting, sink and tub fixtures are all chrome. Do you think the copper cabinet hardware will clash? Should the window hardware match the sink, etc. or the cabinet? Decisions, decisions. Below is the pinboard with paint colors, tile and some inspiration photos.